The Portia Bonnet: Free Crochet Bonnet Pattern

Introducing the Portia Bonnet: Free Crochet Bonnet Pattern

There is something wonderfully nostalgic yet editorial and modern about a handmade bonnet, especially one crafted from classic granny squares. The Portia Bonnet was designed to bring a touch of timeless heritage charm to your cold-weather wardrobe, combining structured granny motifs with a soft, rounded fit that frames the face beautifully. Whether you are wrapping up for a brisk walk across countryside paths or popping out to your local café, this piece offers the ultimate blend of vintage style and practical warmth.

Constructed from seven individual motifs, this pattern is an absolute delight to stitch up and offers a brilliant opportunity to work with crisp contrast tones. The central flowerburst motif opens with plump puff stitches in deep navy, which are then squared off using off-white in half double and double crochet rounds. Once assembled, the face opening is neatly framed with two rounds of half double crochet and a corded crab stitch border. The tie straps are worked seamlessly along the neck in dense single crochet using the yarn under technique for a strong, tailored finish that will not stretch out of shape over time.

Shop all the yarn you need over on Lovecrafts below (AFFILIATE LINK):

Materials & LoveCrafts Yarn Substitutions

The original bonnet was crocheted using 100% wool heavy DK yarn (Hobbii Friends Wool) with a meterage of approximately 100 metres per 50g ball. Pairing a slightly heavier DK wool with a 5.00 mm hook creates a flexible, squishy fabric that drapes comfortably around the head without feeling rigid. If you prefer to source your yarn from LoveCrafts, there are several fantastic alternative yarns that match the weight, stitch definition, and cozy warmth beautifully.

I highly recommend using wool or wool blend yarn for this pattern and suggest steering away from cotton or other plant-based fibres.

Yarn Requirements

Colour 1 (C1): Hobbii Friends Off White (Shade 02), approximately 100 g (200 metres)
Colour 2 (C2): Hobbii Friends Navy Melange (Shade 82), approximately 50 g (100 metres)

Recommended LoveCrafts Substitutions

Paintbox Yarns Wool Blend DK or Aran: A budget-friendly option with a vast palette, ideal for recreating this classic dark navy and cream contrast.
Rico Design Essentials Soft Merino DK: Pure wool with exceptional stitch definition that makes the central puff stitch petals stand out.
Stylecraft Highland Heathers DK or Aran: Rich, heathered shades that give the bonnet an authentic countryside feel.
Debbie Bliss Rialto DK: Extraordinarily soft, machine-washable merino wool that feels gentle against the forehead and neck.

Tools & Notions

Hook: 5.00 mm crochet hook
Notions: Sharp yarn scissors, tapestry needle for weaving in ends, and a flexible measuring tape for checking gauge.
Blocking Gear: Foam blocking mats and rust-proof stainless steel T-pins, or alternative.

Stitches Needed & Special Techniques

Standard Stitches (US Terms)

Chain (ch): Yarn over and pull through the loop on your hook.
Slip Stitch (sl st): Insert hook into stitch or space, yarn over, and pull directly through both the stitch and the loop on your hook.
Single Crochet (sc): Insert hook into stitch/space, yarn over and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops on hook.
Half Double Crochet (hdc): Yarn over, insert hook into stitch/space, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through all 3 loops simultaneously.
Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert hook into stitch/space, yarn over and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yarn over and pull through 2 loops, yarn over and pull through remaining 2 loops.

Special Stitches & Techniques

Puff Stitch (Puff St)

Yarn over, insert hook into designated space, yarn over and pull up a loop to the height of a double crochet (3 loops on hook).
Repeat (yarn over, insert hook into same space, yarn over and pull up a loop) 3 more times in the exact same space. You will have 9 loops on your hook.
Yarn over and pull carefully through all 9 loops on hook.
Chain 1 to lock and secure the top of the puff stitch. (This ch-1 forms the space worked into in the following round).

Single Crochet Yarn Under (sc yu)

Working your single crochet stitches with the yarn under technique creates a denser, more compact stitch with a neat V shape that prevents sagging along edges and ties.

Insert hook into indicated stitch.
Instead of wrapping yarn over hook from back to front, place your hook over the working yarn so the yarn is under the hook.
Grab yarn and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook).
Yarn over normally (from back to front) and pull through both loops on hook to complete stitch.

Crab Stitch / Reverse Single Crochet (rsc)

This stitch creates a textured, corded rim along edges. It is worked in the opposite direction of your normal crochet round without turning your work (from left to right for right-handed crocheters).

With right side facing, insert hook into stitch immediately to the right of your hook.
Yarn over and pull up a loop (2 loops on hook).
Yarn over and pull through both loops on hook. Repeat in each stitch working backward around border.

How to Work Out Gauge for a Granny Square

Checking your gauge is essential when making headwear to ensure your finished bonnet fits comfortably on an adult head rather than turning out too tight or overly loose. Because the bonnet is built from a fixed grid of seven motifs, the final size depends directly on the dimensions of each square.

Target Gauge

1 completed 4-round flowerburst square must measure exactly 4 inches by 4 inches (10 cm by 10 cm) after a light wet blocking using a 5.00 mm hook.

Step-by-Step Gauge Calculation

The Math: A 4-round motif worked with a 5.00 mm hook produces 18 double crochet stitches along each flat side in Round 4. To reach a width of 4 inches (10 cm), your stitch density needs to average 4.5 stitches per inch (1.8 stitches per cm).
Work a Test Square: Crochet one full 4-round motif following the written pattern below.
Measure Unblocked: Lay your square flat on a hard surface without pulling the edges. Measure across the middle from outer edge to outer edge. An unblocked square usually measures around 3.75 inches (9.5 cm).
Block and Re-measure: Wet block your test square by soaking it in water, pressing out excess moisture in a towel, and pinning the four corners to exactly 4 inches by 4 inches. Let it dry completely before measuring again.
Adjusting Hook Size: If your blocked motif exceeds 4 inches, your tension is loose, so drop down to a 4.50 mm or 4.00 mm hook. If it measures smaller than 4 inches, your stitches are tight, so switch up to a 5.50 mm hook.

Why Blocking is Essential (and How to Do It)

Blocking is often overlooked, but taking the time to block your flowerburst motifs before seaming is the single most effective way to guarantee a smooth finish. Because hand tension naturally fluctuates from square to square, wet blocking ensures that all seven motifs match identically in size. It opens up the central puff stitches, flattens curling corners, and aligns edge loops so seaming becomes straightforward and crisp.

Step-by-Step Wet Blocking Guide

Soak your squares: Fill a clean basin with tepid water and submerge all seven squares. Press them down gently so they absorb water thoroughly, letting them soak for 15 to 20 minutes.
Squeeze Gently: Lift the squares out without wringing or twisting yarn. Place flat on a dry towel, roll towel up, and press firmly to draw out excess moisture.
Pin to Measurements: Place damp squares on a foam blocking board. Using a tape measure, pin four corners of each square until sides form a clean 4 inch by 4 inch (10 cm by 10 cm) square, placing extra T-pins along edges to keep them straight. If you don’t have blocking equipment, feel free to lay them as neatly as you can, but it’s strongly recommended to invest in blocking boards if you plan on crocheting granny squares regularly.
Dry Completely: Allow pinned squares to dry completely in a warm, ventilated space before unpinning. Once dry, wool fibers retain their pinned shape, making them easier to seam together.

Pattern Notes & Abbreviations

Skill Level: Intermediate

Sizing: One size fits most teens/adults

Terms: US Crochet Terms are used throughout this pattern.

Stitches:

Abbreviation	Definition
C1	Colour 1 (Off White)
C2	Colour 2 (Navy)
ch	Chain
cm	Centimetres
dc	Double crochet (US terms)
g	Grams
hdc	Half double crochet (US terms)
m	Metres
mm	Millimetres
Puff St	Puff stitch
rsc	Reverse single crochet / crab stitch
sc	Single crochet (US terms)
sc yu	Single crochet yarn under
sl st	Slip stitch
st / sts	Stitch / stitches

Colour Key:

Colour 1 (C1): Navy Blue
Colour 2 (C2): Off White

Written Pattern Instructions: Portia Flowerburst Square

The Portia Bonnet: Free Crochet Bonnet Pattern

Make 7 identical squares following the instructions below and/or chart above.

Round 1 (C1 – Navy Blue): Start with a magic ring (or ch 4, sl st into first ch to form a ring). Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), work 15 dc into ring. Sl st to top of initial ch-3 to join. Fasten off C2 or sl st into space between stitches. (16 dc)

Round 2 (C1 – Navy Blue): Join or sl st into any space between dc stitches from Round 1. Ch 1, work a Puff St into space, ch 1. Work a Puff St into next space between dc stitches, ch 1; repeat from * around 14 more times. Sl st into top of first Puff St to join. Fasten off C2 and weave in ends. (16 Puff St petals, 16 ch-1 spaces)

Round 3 (C2 – Off White): Join C1 in any ch-1 space from Round 2.

Corner: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), work (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in same ch-1 space.
Side: Work 3 hdc in each of next 3 ch-1 spaces.
Repeat: (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-1 space for corner; work 3 hdc in each of next 3 ch-1 spaces; repeat from * to * 2 more times. Sl st to top of initial ch-3 to join. (4 corners of [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc], 3 groups of 3 hdc per side; total 15 sts per side between corner ch-2 spaces)

Round 4 (C2 – Off White): Sl st across to corner ch-2 space (or join fresh yarn in corner).

Corner: Ch 3 (counts as 1 dc), work (2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in corner ch-2 space.
Side: Work 3 dc in each space between the stitch groups along the side (4 groups of 3 dc per side).
Repeat: (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in corner ch-2 space; 3 dc in each space across side; repeat around. Sl st to top of initial ch-3 to join. Fasten off and weave in all ends on wrong side. (4 corners of [3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc], 4 groups of 3 dc per side; total 18 dc per side between corner ch-2 spaces)

Assembly & Seaming

Ensure all 7 squares have been blocked to 4 inches by 4 inches (10 cm by 10 cm) before starting assembly. Seam the top left and right squares onto the sides of the top square to form the hood shape that will curve around your head.

Edging & Tie Cords

Face Opening Border

Attach C1 (Off White) at bottom right corner of front face opening.

Row 1 (C1): Work 72 hdc evenly around entire face opening. Turn. (72 hdc)
Row 2 (C1): Work 72 hdc across face opening. Do not turn. (72 hdc)
Row 3 (C1): Work 1 row of Crab Stitch (reverse single crochet) across face opening for the border. Fasten off C1.

Neck Edging & Tie Straps

Attach C1 (Off White) at bottom corner of bonnet to prepare integrated neck trim and tie cords.

Foundation Row: Chain 80 in C1 for first strap, join onto bottom section of bonnet, work 52 stitches across base (neck) of bonnet, then chain another 80 stitches for second strap.

Check your stitches: 80 chain stitches + 52 neck stitches + 80 chain stitches = 212 stitches total across the row.

Row 1 (C1): Working back along foundation chains and neck edge, work 1 sc (yarn under) into every stitch across all 212 stitches together in C1.
Row 2 (C2 – Navy Melange): Join C2 and work 1 row of sc across all 212 stitches to create a stunning contrast line along straps and neck.

Fasten off C2, weave in all remaining ends on wrong side, and gently steam or wet block ties so they lie clean and flat.

Enjoy your gorgeous bonnet!

Copyright Notice

This pattern is an original design by Emmaknitty and is protected by international copyright law. You may not copy, share, sell, or redistribute this pattern or its contents in any form. You are welcome to sell finished items made from this pattern on a small scale. If selling online, please credit the designer by including: “Pattern by Emmaknitty”. Mass production is strictly prohibited without prior written permission.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why use single crochet yarn under for the neck straps?

Using the yarn under technique for single crochet stitches compresses the yarn, resulting in a dense, non-stretchy stitch. This gives the ties excellent structure so they hold their shape through regular wear.

Can I skip wet blocking the squares before seaming?

Blocking before seaming is strongly recommended for this project. Because the bonnet structure relies on precise geometry, unblocked squares with curling edges make seaming difficult and can lead to uneven tension around the face.

Can I use different styles of granny squares for this pattern?

Of course! Playing around with different designs is a lot of fun. hy not make a bonnet out of the most unusual motifs you can find?

The Portia Bonnet: Free Crochet Bonnet Pattern

Introducing the Portia Bonnet: Free Crochet Bonnet Pattern

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