Knitting pattern · Tutorial · Yarn Reviews

The Strand Blanket · Free Knitting Pattern

Sometimes you’ve just got to stick a dog in a photo, haven’t you? If you’ve been following my antics over on Instagram you’ll have seen that we recently added two puppers to the family – a Golden Retreiver and a GSD cross – and we couldn’t be happier! Obviously I was happy because dogs = extra photo opportunities (joke) but I couldn’t resist grabbing Bob our Golden for a quick pose! Doesn’t she look lovely?

The Strand Blanket.

Designing this blanket alongside the wonderful folks at Marrier Yarns was an absolute joy! They kindly sent me a generous 500g cone of their 4ply acrylic, a couple of balls of their Smooth Touch Cotton Look DK and a colour pack of Midget DK to play about with and design a project with – how cool is that?

I’m a big fan of actylic yarn, but sometimes it’s hard to find decent quality man-made fibres at a good price. I was pleasantly surprised to see that Marriner Yarns are quietly flying the flag of great-value yarn at incredibly small prices. I particularly love the colour selection available, as well as the generous sizes. The 400g cone I used for this blanket is wonderful for large projects and the small 25g balls of Midget are ideal for Amigurimi, granny squares or adding a pop of colour alongisde neutrals – just as I did here with this blanket. I love, love, love these yarns!

Watching the colours change and form stripes as you work is one of those “aahhh”” moments!

The Strand Blanket is a great beginner’s project, ideal for anyone wanting a long-term “pick up, put down” make that is repetitive and calming but also exciting! Watching the colours change as you work is wonderfully satisfying, and the chunkiness means that it’ll work up in no time. You can work as many rows as you like to make any size blanket (my measurements are approximate and my own) so it’s also flexible and versatile. Just cast on more or less stitches as you wish and work for as many rows as you want until you reach your desired size. Easy as pie, no-fuss and pretty, just the way we like it at Emmaknitty. I love the neutral yarn working together with the splashes of bright, punchy shades and of course the squish of garter stitch is always gorgeously cosy. What a dream!

You will need:

  • A cone of Marriner 4ply in a neutral shade (I chose beige);
  • A bumper pack of Midget DK;
  • An 8.00mm circular needle longer than 32″;
  • A wool/yarn needle for weaving in ends and scissors.

You will need to know:

The Long Tail cast on (or other stretchy cast on technique), the knit stitch, slipping stitches purlwise, binding/casting off, weaving in ends.


  • For this project you will be using a circular needle but knitting as you would on straight needles (i.e. not joining in the round). This is because the blanket will be quite large, and using circulars for big knits puts less strain on your wrists and arms. We want to be comfy when we knit, right?
  • The blanket is worked fully in garter stitch (knitting evey stitch) using three strands of yarn and we will always slip the first stitch purlwise and knit the last stitch. This leaves a clean edge.


Firstly we need to separate the cone of yarn into two. Carefully wind two 200g (or as equally sized as you can) balls of yarn from the cone and set aside. Now take your miniature 25g balls of Midget and join them all together, forming one large ball of alternating colours. You can choose how you combine the shades, but sime nice ideas could be attaching all similar colours together, going from bright to more neutral shades or just randomly going in and attaching the different shades randomly as I did.

You should now have three balls (tee hee) and now we’re ready to knit!

Squish factor: Off the scale.
  • Cast on 130 stitches onto your 8.00mm circular needles, holding all three strands together. It’s always a good idea to cast on loosely, especially if you’re a tight knitter.
  • Slip the first stitch purlwise and knit every stitch to the end of the row.
  • Follow the above instructions for all of the project, watching those gorgeous shades pop out when you least expect it and stopping when the blanket is at the right length for you. I stopped knitting when my blanket was approximately 64cm (25″) long which made it a great size for a lap or pet blanket.
  • Cast/bind off loosely, weave in ends and block if desired.

I hope you enjoyed this simple, off-the-cuff pattern! Do check out my other free patterns and turorials and feel free to share your own The Strand Blanket on Instagram by tagging me at @emmaknitty… I’d love to see what you make!

How To · Knitting pattern · Tutorial

Squidlet Newborn Sweater · Free Knitting Pattern

Knitting garments is one of my favourite things to do, but I sometimes get a bit put off by the hard work invoved! Aside from the actual time-consuming knitting part, working out the sizing and paying special attention to stitch count, gauge and all that jazz can really make me stress out. I told you I was a lazy knitter! However, when my bestie told me she was pregnant, I just new that I had to make something extra-special and unique, and the pattern for the Squidlet Newborn Sweater was born!

What I love most about this sweater – apart from it being cute and the colour palette – is that it’s very simple to knit, takes very little time and is wonderful for newbie knitters who want to expand their skills quickly. Plus it fits babies from newborn all the way up to six months, so it’ll last and last. What’s not to love? Feel free to adapt this pattern if you’re a more advanced knitter – you can leave out the stripes if you wish or make it longer at the body section – but this pattern will give you all the basics you need.

All measurements are approximate and will depend on your tension, but feel free to knit as many rounds as you like on the body section for a longer, more relaxed look. Why not make it into a sweater dress?

Above are all the measurements you need. It’s always a good idea to keep a tape measure with you (or a measuring app) to keep track of lengths and widths as you go. Nobody wants to unravel tentacle-like sleeves that you’ve got carried away knitting whilst bingeing on a series!

You will need:

  • 100g of white DK/Worsted/8 ply weight yarn, 15-20g each of four other DK weight yarns in different colours. I used a mixture of wool/acrylic and cotton/acrylic blend yarns for the stripes and a 100% acrylic yarn for the white sections. I recommend using 100% wool or a wool blend yarn for this project, only using cotton if it is blended with acrylic or wool.
  • A pair of 3.5mm & 5.00mm 16″ circular needles, a pair of 3.00mm & 4.00mm 9″ circular needles (or a long circular needle for the magic loop method or DPNs. Instructions are given for working with 9″ needles).
  • Four stitch markers, one in a different design or colour to indicate the beginning of the round.
  • A tape measure, scissors, a yarn needle, two 30cm scraps of waste yarn (the thinner the better).

Gauge: 19 stitches, 27 rounds to 10cm square.

Level: Intermediate/Advanced Beginner (See below for skills needed).

You will need to know:

The long-tail and ‘thumb’ cast on, Cast/bind off, simple Fair Isle (knitting with two colours), knit stitch, purl stitch, slipping stitches purlwise, kfb (knit front and back) increase, using circular needles, picking up stitches, changing colours, the invisible join in the round. It’s also a good idea to know how to steam block (if using acrylic yarn) or wet block for natural fibres.


If you are not comfortable knitting Fair Isle, you don’t have to! Simply change colours the regular way instead of using the technique I have used. The result will be almost identical.

As this pattern uses more than one colour, the different colours are referred to as colour one (white), colour two (yellow), colour three (light pink), colour four (dark pink), and colour five (blue/green). These colours may differ on your project depending on the shades you have chosen, so it’s worth making a note of your colours before you start. This can avoid mess ups!

Remember it’s always better to cast on and bind off loosely. If you are a particularly tight knitter, consider casting on your stitches onto a needle one size bigger (so a 4.5mm needle in this case) and then slip the stitches onto the 3.5mm afterwards.

You don’t have block a finished sweater, but it makes it look 200x better. I always recommend doing it to add a great, neat finish that evens your stitches out. Steam blocking is recommended for man-made fibres, but remember to hold your iron at least 20cm away from the garment to avoid melting.


  • Cast on 55 stitches on the 3.5mm needles. Join using the invisible join method, leaving 54 stitches. Place a marker to indicate the beginning of your round.
  • knit one, purl one (1×1 rib) for four rounds, or for 2cm. This is the collar of your sweater.
  • Change to the 5.00mm needles by slipping all stitches purlwise.
  • Knit four rounds plain (knit every stitch around).

Now we’re going to place the markers that will indicate where we need to increase and form the raglan part of the sweater. Remember to use markers that are the same colour or style and different from your beginning of round marker.

  • From the beginning of the round, knit 11, place marker, knit 16, place marker, knit 11, place marker, knit 16 to end of round.
  • Change to colour two by knitting one stitch in colour one, one stitch colour two.

The next step will be known as your increase round (in bold). It will be referred to as your increase round from now on, so follow this step whenever you see ‘increase round’ in the pattern.

  • From beginning of round, kfb (knit into front and back of stitch), knit until two stitches before raglan marker, kfb, knit one, slip marker, kfb*, repeating this until your reach the beginning of round marker, This pattern will form your raglan increases. Knit one round plain.
  • Work an increase round followed by a plain knit round three times (six rounds).
  • Change to colour three by knitting one stitch in colour two, one stitch in colour three.
    Work an increase round followed by a plain knit round three times (six rounds).
    Change to colour four by knitting one stitch in colour three, one stitch in colour four.
    Work an increase round followed by a plain knit round three times (six rounds).
    Change to colour three by knitting one stitch in colour four, one stitch in colour five.
    Work an increase round followed by a plain knit round three times (six rounds).
    Change back to colour one by knitting one stitch in colour five, one stitch in colour one
  • You are now back to colour one and have worked 24 increase/raglan rounds. You should have 142 stitches on your needles, working out as 38 stitches on the body sections (front and back) and 33 stitches on the sleeve sections. Your raglan increases should measure approximately 11cm. If it doesn’t, no worries! Just work another round or so of increases separated by a plain knit round until it does. If your increases measure a bit more than 12cm that’s also fine, it’ll just mean that there will be a little extra growing room around the sleeves and that’s a good thing.

Now comes the trickiest bit: separating the sleeves. Here we go…

From the beginning of the round, slip the first 33 sleeve stitches onto scrap yarn and tie a knot. Cast on five stitches using the thumb method. Remove the raglan markers as you go, but keep the beginning of round marker in place. Knit across the next 38 body stitches, slip the next 33 sleeve stitches onto scrap yarn as before and tie a knot. Cast on five stitches and knit across the remaining 38 body stitches as you did previously. You should now be at the beginning of the round and have successfully separated the sleeves. Have a glass of wine at this point!

Now lets work the body section…

  • Knit every round plain (knit every stitch for 33 rounds. We’ve almost finished the body – woo!
  • Change back to your 3.5mm needles and knit one, purl one for five rounds. This is the hem.
  • Change back to the 5.00 mm needles by slipping every stitch purlwise (like we did at the collar) and bind/cast off loosely. Using a larger needle means that the hem will be slightly stretchier and less tight, great for slipping on and off a baby’s wriggling body!

We need to knit the sleeves now, so grab your 9″ 4.00mm needles and we shall carry on.

  • Slip all the 38 stitches held on the scrap yarn onto your 9″ needles (or onto longer needkes for magic loop, or DPNs) and knit across all the stitches.
  • When you reach the underarm section, pick up three stitches, place a stitch marker, pick up two stitches. You have no picked up and added the five stitches you cast on earlier. Knit until your sleeve measures 23cm from cast on edge (top of collar). Slip all stitches onto your 3.00mm 9″ needle and knit one, purl one every stitch for five rounds. Slip all stitches onto your 4.00mm 9″ needle once again and bind off.

Repeat the above section for the second sleeve.

To finish, sew up any holes on the underarm area of the sweater – don’t worry, this is normal when knitting raglan sweaters – and weave in all ends carefully and securely. I always follow this game-changing guide by Purlsoho when weaving in my ends.

And that’s your sweater. You’ve done it! Now to make 20 more of them…

I really hope you enjoyed this wordy pattern and found it useful! Don’t forget to tag me @emmaknitty of Instagram if you tried this sweater, and use the hashtag #squidletsweater to share your work.

Knitting pattern · Yarn Reviews

Yarn Review · Hobbii Christmas Special


(This post is kindly sponsored by Hobbii who provided yarn support)

Don’t say it too loudly, but there’s less than a month to go until Christmas Day. That means Christmas shopping is becoming a serious possibility in the next few days, not to mention putting the tree up, decorating the house and – sorry – having to put up with piped ”festive” music in every supermarket. Altogether now, “WELL I WISH IT COULD BE CHRISTMAS EVERY DAYYYYYY!” Do you hate me yet?

I’m a bit of a grinch to be honest (as in, I hate it when shops start putting Christmas trees everywhere in, like, October) but I do love the build up to Christmas at home and all the cosy, hygge elements that go with it. I think that being a crafter and loving everything Scandi really helps with that. Speaking of Scandi, I’m waffling, because what I’m really here to do is talk about the second collaboration I’ve done with my friends at Hobbii over in Denmark!

I really enjoyed working with them the first time around, so it’s been such a joy to design a truly special project and pattern using some of their beautiful 100% wool yarns.

Christmas Morning Slipper Socks. Poms optional, adorable knees essential.

Those of you who follow me over on Instagram will already know that I’m totally addicted to Fair Isle knitting and love nothing more than designing colourwork on graph paper. You’ll also know that I am scared of knitting socks. The idea of turning a heel and all that jazz fills me with dread and, although I’m sure it’ll be something I’ll learn eventually, I’m putting it off. That’s why it’s so good that tube socks exist!

The idea behind this pattern and collab was to design and make some heavier non-slip  slipper socks that are simple enough for advanced beginner knitters to work up as a ‘My First Fair Isle Project’ and fun for experienced knitters who want a quick festive make. Plus, these colours are so painfully on-trend that you will definitely be the snazziest person around the Christmas tree FYI.

For this project I chose Hobbii’s lovely DKs ‘Simple Wool’ and Mayflower ‘Easy Care’ which have some of the lushest colour options on the market. Seriously, I’m still drooling over that mustard and pink! Working up these yarns was a total dream as well, with the silky texture sliding effortlessly as you work, making these yarns ideal for colourwork. The quality speaks for itself.

So, I’m really pleased to share this free pattern with you all just in time for Christmas prep! They are a quick and fabulous knit that will exercise your Fair Isle skills as well as being an ideal “TV knit” – exciting enough to keep your attention but relaxing enough to be an ideal Netflix & Knit companion.

Hobbii’s ‘Simple Wool’ combined with Mayflower ‘Easy Care’ to create some truly amazing colour combinations. Check out the ‘Extras’ page to download some of my colour charts designed especially for this project.

Christmas Morning Slipper Socks

You will need:

  • One pair of 9″ circular needles OR 32″ or above circular needles for magic loop in size 2.00mm for cuff.
  • One pair 32″ circular needles for magic loop in size 4.00mm OR DPNs for body and toe decreases. You can also use a 9″ circular needle for the body section, but change to DPNs or the magic loop when decreasing for the toe section.
  • Three stitch markers, one in a different style.
  • Three balls (150g) of different colour DK weight superwash wool or wool blend yarn (I used Hobbii Happy Sheep Simple Wool in ‘Curry’ and ‘White’ and Mayflower Easy Care in ‘Cerise’)
  • One or two Fair Isle charts that you can download here.
  • Scissors, darning needle, Rico Sock Stop Latex (optional).

Level & Skills:

Advanced Beginner

You’ll need to know how to: work the long tail cast on, invisible join in the round, knit, purl, follow a Fair Isle chart, k2tog (knit two stitches together) decrease, weave in ends.

Sizes: Toddler (Child, Ladies S, M, L).  Toddler (age 2-3 – 10″ long), Child (age 3-5 – 14″ long), S (EUR sizes 35-37 – 16″ long), M (EUR sizes 37-39 – 17″ long), L (EUR size 39-41 – 18″ long).

Notes: If you find the cuff to be a bit snug around your calf, feel free to move up half a needle size until the cuff fits comfortably.

This pattern is written using inches and UK terminology.

Method (make two):

  • Using the 2.00mm needles, cast on 28 (32, 40, 44, 48) stitches (plus one extra stitch to form the invisible join) using your choice of colour one. Join in the round and place a marker to indicate the beginning of the round. Make sure this marker is different to the other markers you will use later on (a different colour, style…)
  • Knit one stitch, purl one stitch to the end of each round for 1″.
  • Change to 4.00mm needles and knit two rounds plain (knit every stitch around).
  • Using one of the supplied charts, follow the chart for the specified amount of rounds.
  • Once you’ve completed the colour chart, knit every stitch around until your piece measures 9″ (12″, 14″,  15″ 16″). Now you can change to a constrasting colour for the toe section, or stick with the same colour if you prefer.

Toe decreases:

Now you’re going to shape and decrease the toe. If you’ve been using a 9″ 4.00mm needle for the sock so far, change over to 32″ or longer needles to use the magic loop method, or DPNs.

Let’s find the halfway point of your sock. Place a marker after 14 (16, 20, 22, 24) stitches.

Now we are going to work the decreases as follows:

Each decrease round is worked as follows for all sizes: From beginning of round, k2tog, knit until three stitches before next marker, k2tog, knit 1, slip marker, k2tog, knit until three stitches before marker, k2tog, knit one* to end.

2. Between each decrease round, knit one round plain (knitting every stitch).

Follow the following method until 10 or fewer stitches remain on your needles. Break yarn and thread through the live stitches, pulling tight to close the hole. Thread through these stitches again a couple of times to secure, then weave in your ends carefully.

Wet block the socks and lay flat to dry. You can also steam block them if you prefer.

Optional: To make your slipper socks safer to wear – especialy for kids – apply some evenly spaced drops of Sock Stop on the sole. For each size, the foot measures approximately 4.5″ (5″, 7″, 8″, 9″) from the tip of the toe, so this will show you how far up the sock to apply the product.

That’s it – you’re done! Don’t forget to share your socks using the hashtag #emmaknitty over on Instagram so I can check out your wonderful makes!

Knitting pattern · Tutorial

Knitting Pattern · Cloud Friends Hat


Ahhh, Nothing gets you longing for Christmas, snow, chilly days and wintry walks like a cosy bobble hat. What’s even better than that is when they’re on everyone’s head, and that’s why I designed this chunky hat for both big and little kids! This adorable pattern is not only ideal for advanced beginners, but super quick to make – if you need a fast gift idea this is the one for you – and looks way more complicated that it actually is!

If you’re new to the world of knitting and are a bit bored of making endless scarves and potholders, this simple hat is perfect for expanding your skill set and exploring techniques such as Fair Isle knitting using a chart. I hope you enjoy working up this satisfying project and experimenting with colour to make your own Cloud Friends Hat!

Cloud Friends Hat

Level: Advanced Beginner

Sizing: Consult this guide for detailed sizing information.

Gauge: 8 stitches, 12 rows to 10cm/4″

You will need:

16″ 10.00mm & 9.00mm (US 14 & 15) circular needles, a stitch marker, scissors, a tapestry needle (ideally one with a collapsible eye), one and a half balls of Millamia Naturally Soft Super Chunky (100g in main colour, 50g in secondary colour), approx 20-50g of scrap chunky yarn for pom-pom (I used Katia Alaska in Off-White), XL pom-pom maker.


Long-tail cast on, bind off, joining in the round using the gapless/invisible method, knit stitch, purl stitch, Fair Isle knitting using a chart, K2tog decrease, making a pom pom, seaming, weaving in ends.

Size: Child (4-6 years) Adult – Instructions for the adult size are given in italics and underlined.


Worked from bottom to top, we’ll work a few rounds of 1×1 ribbing before continuing wuth a few rounds of stockinette (knitting every stitch) around. Then we shall work our Fair Isle design with colour two, start decreasing, seam and add our big pompom on top. When working Fair Isle, remember to keep your stitches fairly loose. It takes a while to perfect this technique, so if you’re new to it don’t worry if your stitches look less than even. Always remember to err on the side of loose tension, don’t pull too tightly, and use stitch markers to mark the beginning and ends of the chart on your work if it helps to keep tracks of where you are. Are you finding the adult sized hat a bit too snug? You can easily make the size bigger by adding 2+1 extra stitches when you cast on.

Chart (Four round, six stitch repeat):


In this case, pink is my main colour and blue the secondary one. Your colours will be different depending on the shades you choose, so do bear this in mind.


Cast on 37 (43) stitches onto the 9.00mm/US 14 circular needle and join using the invisible join method (36) (42). Place marker and pull the tail end to tighten.

Knit 1, purl 1* to end for six rounds.

Change to 10.00/US 15 circular needles and work eight rounds in stockinette stitch (knit every stitch).

Now, pick up your secondary colour yarn and start working the colours according to the chart.

TIP! If it helps, from the beginning of the round place a stitch marker every 6th stitch so you can keep track of where you are.

After this, knit in stockinette until the piece measures 7.”/18cm for kids size or 8.25″/21cm for adults.

For the next round, k2tog every stitch.

Knit one round plain.

Bind off all stitches, seam together by weaving the yarn under each stitch and pulling tight. Weave in ends securely.

Make a pom-pom and attach it by sewing both ends through either end of the seamed part of the top of the hat. Thread the yarn upwards up and through the centre of the pom-pom, trimming these ends to match the length of the pom-pom.

You’re done! Don’t forget to tag your projects with #Cloudfriendshat (Yes, I know this hashtags looks a bit dodgy) on Instagram so I can check out your lovely work!

This free pattern is ©emmaknitty 2018. It must not be copied, reproduced or sold. Do not claim it as your own.

Knitting pattern · Tutorial

Bimba Blanket · Free Knitting Pattern


I know that the month of July isn’t really a good month for knitting blankets – hello sweaty – but I couldn’t wait to share this pattern with you!

As a designer, I’m always on the hunt for the perfect lazy yet satisfying project. To me that means a pattern that is simple enough to make whilst watching TV or relaxing somewhere but interesting enough to still keep your attention – especially important for big, bulky projects like blankets that can take a while to make and could get boring after a while. For me, 90% of the time frogging a project isn’t because of a mistake, but because my knitting ADHD takes over and I get devastatingly bored and want to start something else. Or I just give up and put it in the ‘projects that will remain unfinished forever’ basket up in my studio. Don’t all of us makers have one of those?

The idea behind the Bimba Blanket was to involve ribbing (even though ain’t nobody got time for that), but knowing that ribbing puckers in on itself and could look weird on a blanket, I wanted a stitch that looked like a rib but with something extra. In fact, the pretty, squishy stitch you can see is “sand stitch”, a stitch I’ve been using for years and years not knowing its name – and once convincing myself that I’d invented it like a total loser.


The best thing about this project is seeing the gorgeous stitches pop out and enjoying the tact as you work. On the right side it’s a rib-like texture wheras the wrong side is a kind of separated moss/seed stitch. It’s chunky, almost rubbery feeling, puffy and one of the most enjoyable stitches to work! I promise you that you’ll spend 50% of your making time actually knitting it and the rest just stroking it.

You can of course choose how big you want this blanket to be, but in this pattern it is measured to be a nap blanket for children, or even a cute stroller blanket if you like.


(Measures 35″/89cm – 27″/68cm)

Skill Level: Beginner.

Yarn: 420g (approx) of chunky weight yarn.

I chose a ‘brandless’ 100% acrylic yarn that I fell in love with and was desperate to use, but check out my list below for some yarns that would be awesome to use with this project.

Recommended yarns: Stylecraft Special Chunky, Paintbox Yarns Simply Chunky, Debbie Bliss Rialto Chunky, Drops Big Merino (held double), DMC Natura XL.

Extras: For the pompoms, I used a small amount of Paintbox Yarns Simply Chunky in Neon Orange, Neon Yellow, Pale Lilac and Neon Pink.

Tools: 1 pair 8.00mm/US 11 circular needles, scissors, small-sized pompom maker, wool or tapestry needle.

Skills: Long-tail cast on, slipping stitches purlwise, knit stitch, purl stitch, casting/binding off, weaving in ends, making pompoms.

Gauge: Not important.

NOTES: You will be using the circular needles in the same way as straight needles (working back and forth but not joining). You can substitute the circular needles for straight needles, but be aware that the work will become heavy after a while. Circular needles take the strain of weighty projects like blankets and stop your arms falling off. When making the pompoms, use the same yarn as you used in the project to tie the pompoms off. This means that when you attach them and weave in the ends they will blend into the work and not be noticeable.


Cast on 90 stitches using the long-tail method.

Work sand stitch as follows (remembering to slip the first stitch of every row purlwise to ensure a smooth edge) until the piece measures 27″/68cm (or as long as you like) from the cast on edge;

Row 1 (wrong side): (Slip first stitch purlwise) Knit to end.

Row 2: (Slip first stitch purlwise) *Knit 1, purl 1 until two stitches remain. Knit these last two stitches.

The purl side is the ‘right’ side.

Cast/bind off all stitches and weave in the ends.

Make four pompoms in your chosen colours, attach them to each of the corners and weave in the ends.

You’re done!

Don’t forget to tag your photos on social media with the hashtag #bimbablanket so I can check out your work!

This free pattern is ©emmaknitty 2018. It must not be copied, reproduced or sold. Do not claim it as your own.